Coco Chanel (1883-1971) was several people in one. For starters: an icon. A self-made millionaire, role model, socialite, designer but above all: a great actress who never broke character. Her private life was a disordered whirlwind: royal lovers, obscure lies about the past and friends who helped her adapt to her new life. Other than most designers, she had to fight herself trough misery and created a glamorous alter ego. Strongly driven by her struggles with her poor past: the hard life without guardians and no education or economic recourses, she opened her first boutique at age 31.
However, the details in her life are interesting; enough to write books about, her marketing strategy is extremely fascinating.
Since Chanel you don’t buy a Chanel-piece, you buy Chanel. You buy a vision, a dream and a concept.
She wanted her work to be accessible; and was flattered when it was copied by so many. Until today her iconic biographic pieces are still in fashion. Other than her extinct rivals (say Schiaparelli), the Chanel signature isn’t bound by time. The charm is a combination of the neutral silhouette and the straight forward textile designs. Her innovative machine made jersey in solid colors, simple stripes, pleats and straight lines will never become dull. It made a boring knitted fabric athletic, sexual powerful and independent.
Every fragment screams Coco but there is no trace of Gabriëlle. Coco is a public figure who lived the good life and was always dressed in her own creations. For many fashionistas it’s just about clothing but for true fashion insiders it’s all about personal and physical transformation. It’s about the lifestyle you buy; it even comes with free clothing. These clothes come in many shapes and sizes, on different models (high class socialites or hired models) but somehow they always end up being Coco. It’s not only the pearls, the flat shoes, the glasses and the boyish short hair. It’s about the feeling you get in your stomach experiencing this.
Immediate effects of wearing Chanel are instant class and instant aerodynamic. The simple colors don’t need ornaments. Most women opt themselves for one look and then stick to it. It takes a lot of strength and innovative ideas to change an inconspicuous and neat ideology in order to create a new type of women. A woman who does whatever she wants, who doesn’t wear corsets, doesn’t pursue this impossible s-figure.
For the final stage of my attempt to clarify the one brand everybody recognizes instantly, I want to point out how smart she was to use the stage for her campaigns. It’s not a polished campaign starring Keira Knightly, Audrey Tautou or Blake Lively, but then I recall Romy Schneider, Gloria Swansen and Ina Claire were celebrated, independent women at that time. At first sight that approach may lead to a uniform that doesn’t look like it fits the characters at all, and due to the timeless designs they actually can be used in every setting.
Whatever the substance of this vision is, millions of people buy Chanel, just for the interlocking double-C. Until we decided that buying clothing with the intention to cover ourselves was a task too primitive for us. Many more of us will be seduced to get into that magic world of Coco at some point in our lives.
See you on the other side.
Love,
Lin.

-reflection on Coco Chanel & Contagious Celebrity – Rhonda Garelick-